Legzira & Sidi Ifni

Legzira Beach is famous for its ochre-red cliffs and, once, for two natural rock arches carved by the Atlantic. The northern arch collapsed in September 2016 — the sea and the rock finally settled an argument that had been running for centuries — but the southern arch still stands, and at low tide, in the honeyed light of late afternoon, it remains one of the most photographed formations on Morocco's coast. It is worth being accurate about the collapse rather than surprising you on arrival: one arch, not two, but genuinely spectacular still.

A few minutes south sits Sidi Ifni, which belonged to Spain until 1969 and still looks it: pastel Art Deco buildings, wide colonial-era plazas, and a harbour where wooden fishing boats are lowered onto the sand by crane, since there is no natural port. The whole area moves at the pace of a place time slightly forgot, and I think that is exactly its charm.